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Guide Intro The Four Cs Birth of Diamonds Diamond Shapes Diamond Anatomy Ring Metal
& Settings



The round brilliant and princess cut diamond shapes are by far the most popular choices for the center/main stone in a diamond ring. But many rings and jewelry items feature multiple other diamonds meant to accent the piece where you'll more commonly see shapes from those below.

Round Brilliant Diamonds
This classic diamond shape is by far the most popular sold today. There are 58 total facets in a round brilliant, usually with 33 on the crown, 24 on the pavilion, and 1 on the culet. The fire and brilliance of a well-cut round brilliant diamond is unmatched.
Princess Cut Diamond
This shape is typically square, but can also be slightly rectangular. In the grand scheme of diamonds, the princess cut has just recently become popular. The 4 prong mount that a princess cut diamond is set in should protect the corners from chipping. A princess cut can look smaller than other shapes for its weight because comparatively speaking it is “bottom-heavy”.
Pear Shaped Diamonds
The pear shape is known as a hybrid cut, sharing characteristics of both the oval and the marquise. Its shape resembles a teardrop, and can make beautiful dangle earrings or pendants, but is also seen as a center stone. Beware of dark areas in the shape of a bowtie due to poor cutting proportions.
Marquise Diamonds
A marquise cut diamond can be described as having the shape of a football, and it can make average length fingers look long and slender. This diamond shape can look relatively large for it’s carat weight. Marquise cut diamonds are usually good in color, as a poorer color will show near the points of the stone. The name comes from the smile of the French Marquise de Pompadour.

Oval Diamonds
Oval diamonds can have a brilliance similar to that of the round brilliant. They’re in high demand, so usually expensive for their carat weight. They can also lengthen the appearance of a woman’s fingers, but are susceptible to dark, bowtie shaped areas when they are poorly cut.
Emerald Cut Diamond
The emerald cut was originally developed for just that - cutting emeralds. They resemble a rectangle with angled or beveled corners. They are “step cut”, because their facets look like steps. Because the facets are large and few, inclusions are much more easily seen. For this reason, better clarity stones are typically used for an emerald cut. They have far less fire and brilliance than other cuts, but they create bright flashes of light rather than small sparkly reflections.
Radiant Diamonds
The radiant cut resembles the emerald cut from above, but the pavilion has a facet pattern that maximizes the stone’s brilliance. This is a deeper cut than others, especially for shapes that are more rectangular than square. The angled corners help protect it against chipping. The radiant cut is very popular in 3 stone rings, and it’s often seen in fancy-colored diamonds as well. Beware of “bowties”.
Heart Shaped Diamonds
The proportions used in the cutting of heart shaped stones are up to the tastes of the cutter, so the heart may be skinny or fat. This style is often used for solitaire necklaces, and for obvious reasons, it’s a very popular shape around St. Valentine’s Day. A heart shaped diamond is similar to the pear shaped diamond, but it has a cleft at the top. Sometimes cutters use stones that would otherwise be cut to a different shape, but an inclusion is removed where the cleft is. Heart shaped diamonds can have excellent brilliance if well cut.
Trilliant/Trillion Diamonds
Trilliant is a term that combines “triangular” and “brilliant”. It’s also sometimes called a “trillion”. They are generally triangular in shape, but a trilliant diamond can have slightly rounded corners rather than sharp points. They usually have 50 facets, and can appear larger than a round diamond of the same carat weight. Trilliants are often used as side stones but can be center stones too.
Baguette
The baguette is a long, skinny rectangle shape that became popular around the art deco period. The shape can also be tapered. Like the emerald cut, the baguette is a “step cut” diamond, but it does not have angled or beveled facets on the corners. There are usually only 2 rows of facets, and the view of the interior of the stone is very clear so inclusions are more easily seen than in other shapes.



NEXT: 5. “The Anatomy of a Diamond”...


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