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Guide Intro The Four Cs Birth of Diamonds Diamond Shapes Diamond Anatomy Ring Metal
& Settings


An engagement ring is made up of several parts, one of which is the metal ring itself - almost always gold, white gold, or platinum.

Each metal has different properties. Each is a different color, and each has a different luster or shine. Note that platinum and white gold are extremely similar in color and shine.

Gold (often called Yellow Gold) is an alloy, made by mixing gold with metals like copper and zinc.

White Gold
is an alloy, made of gold and metals like silver and palladium.

A note about gold karat weight:

24-karat gold is pure gold but so soft it cannot readily be used in jewelry - which is why it is mixed with other metals to give it strength.

14-Karat Gold (14 out of 24) is most commonly used for jewelry. This is a bit more than one-half pure gold. It is most affordable, and surprisingly durable.

18-Karat Gold (18 out of 24) is also popular, and is about three-quarters pure gold. However, since there is more of the softer gold present in 18-karat gold, it can be slightly more susceptible to wear. It is more expensive than 14-karat simply because there is more gold present. Note that 18-karat white gold still contains gold (naturally yellow). Thus, over time, wear can begin to work upon the piece, and it can begin to show its gold basis.

Platinum is a white metal, but unlike gold, it is used in almost its pure form (approximately 95% pure). It is extremely long-wearing and dense, so will be heavier than a gold ring of the same style. Platinum is actually relatively soft - but since it is 95% pure, polishing will always bring it back to new. It also has great abrasive resistance. This means that should it be dented, scraped, or rubbed through wear, it simply moves within itself and does not come off or wear away. Thus, platinum can always be "pushed" back into shape and polished to look brand new. Platinum, however, can cost twice as much as gold.



The decision on what type of metal to choose for the ring itself is purely personal preference. Often, a woman will have hinted towards a metal she likes. Other times, you may have to inspect her existing jewelry to get an idea of what she’d be most happy with.

It's important to note that diamonds under a "J" color may have an slightly amber hue. These can be quite affordable, but still of higher quality. This hue will not be as visible on a yellow gold ring as in a platinum or white gold ring.

On any ring itself, there are several places where gems (most often diamonds) are set. “Set” means a stone is either embedded into the ring, or fixed on top of it.

There is usually a larger center stone/diamond. It is usually attached to the ring using “prongs”, which are small metal arms protruding from the ring, reaching out and holding the stone in place. 4- and 6-prong choices are most popular.

A ring that has only the larger center stone/diamond is called a “solitaire”, and is the most popular engagement ring choice. Without the added cost of “side stones” a buyer can often use those dollars for a larger center stone/diamond.

Side stones are additional diamonds set next to the main stone. Sometimes, there will be one slightly smaller stone on either side of the main stone. Other times, a channel is cut into the ring where many (usually square, or "princess cut") small diamonds are placed in equal amounts on either side of the main stone. This is known as “channel cut” or “channel set”, as the stones are down inside the body of the ring, flush with its surface. These stones may extend just a short distance away from the main stone. If they extend all the way around the entire ring, this is known as an “eternity” ring or eternity band.

Finally buying "matching sets" has become popular. The engagement ring comes with a wedding band that is matched to it. A setting with side stones may have a matching wedding band that looks like the engagement ring, but minus the center stone, and replaced with side stones across.

Again, the type of ring to choose is simply personal preference.


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